Tuesday, 14 February 2012

Fashion | Derek Lam Autumn/Winter 2012









While keeping my eye on NY Fashion Week I came across Derek Lam, and it is fair to say I have found my new favourite designer of all time.
So lets descuss why I LOVE this collection so much, shall we?
  • The tailoring of the more fitted pieces look so clean-cut and sharp, giving such a fresh 1950's/60's feel.
  • In the recent months I have fallen in love with light and flowing fabrics, but I had yet to see a collection in which the art of placing fabric perfectly was nailed right on the head so that the fabric fell so naturally and care free, but still holding structure until I stumbled across this collection right here. The last 4 photographs really capture the dream-like way that the fabric moves.
  • The patterns on the tailored pieces, personally, are what give the collection the real 1960's feel; the large fern life pattern on the dress in the second photo that is juxtaposed against the bright floral collar is just to die for.
  • I am a sucker for big knit jumpers and the ones from this collection remind me of home, out in the county. This heavy knit feel is juxtaposed against the delicate sophistication of the flowing skirts is just simply AMAZING.
  • WIDE-LEG PLEATED SEQUIN PANTS. Oh my dear Lord and all that is Cat Lady. They are AMAZING/TO DIE FOR. The wide-leg pants are seen again in this collection but made out of different materials, such as leather and a tweed looking fabric, but the sequins are 100% my favourite. Usually when I see sequins either on the catwalk or out on the streets, I can't help but cringe as, for some unknown reason, I find them rather tacky 99% of the time. BUT Derek you have nailed it right on the head. and paired with the very crisp and clean cut leather shirt is just, UGH DROOL. Which leads me on to my next point....
  • MIXED. TEXTURES. Yes, yes I know that mixing textures is not a new invention, but, I don't know how, Derek has created a whole new meaning to the concept. Precisely tailored leather with bellowing sequins, Heavy knit with delicate chiffon, Fur with tailored fabric and leather. It all seems to carefully planned and thought out and comes together some how effortlessly.
  • Caped shoes have been floating around the fashion world for quite a while now, and I have had my doubts about them. I have always wanted to love them because it remind me of my grandfather wearing steel capped work boots on the farm, but they are some thing that you have to either love or hate.  But damn it, I LOVE these ones. I think that if I was to see them just on their own I would probably walk straight past them, but put with the rest of the ensemble, they are DELICIOUS. They complement the rest of the outfit; the 1950's masculine style oxford's matched with the clean cut and precise skirt suit create a very classic silhouette. I also love the fact that it is gold capped. So far the only style that I have seen is either silver or white. I love the warmer tone.
  • The juxtaposition of Modern against Classic, Feminine against Masculine, Heavy against Delicate, Sleek against Shabby creates a the feeling that you are watching a gothic-eque classic Back and White film. Truly exquisite.
  • And lastly, the hair. OH THE HAIR! It is truly amazing. Usually I am not one to really go all fan-girl over the hair in a collection, but OH MY DAYS, the hair was the element that caught my attention! It is so sleek but casual and shabby at the same time. It is also what puts across the 1950's/60's feel of the whole collection. It complements against the sleekness and clean cut look of the collection. My next project is to make my hair like this.
I don't think I have EVER felt so strongly about a collection ever in my life.
All Imaged Via Marcio Madeira for VOGUE

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